K. OLECH
The new participants: Piotr Mlotecki (leader), Miramar escort service W. Branski, A good. Gardas, W. Klaput, M. Malatynski K. Olech (deputy leader), J. Olszewski, M. Piatkowski, A beneficial. Pietraszek (doctor), M. Rogalski, Z. Rubinoski, A good. Sobolewski, Z. Staszyszyn, Good. Strumitto and you can S. Wdowiak.
The first ASCENT From KANGBACHEN, 1974
The first people comprising A beneficial. Gardas, Meters. Malatynski, K. Olech, J. Olszewski, Meters. Rogalski, A beneficial. Sobolewski with Jepa, Sonam and you can several porters found the brand new Ramtang Area to your elizabeth put where in actuality the Jugoslav expedition had for the 1965.
We reach functions getting ready Ft towards fundamental caravan category, starting the reconnaissance of npper an element of the valley and observing the new icefall and you may moraine whereby the Jugoslavs have got to the original terrace out-of Kangbachen.
The icefall, designed in the a couple accounts is actually very fractured as well as the snowfall covering it is surface generated tough early observance regarding crevasses. The fresh sides of icefall were endangered from the avalanches, that eventually will be as a result of new seraes throughout the very first terrace. m. everyday and you will resulting in avalanches of various brands. Due to the recce we chosen a secure route through the center of icefall, they becoming a relatively hushed part between the seracs and also the snowfields so we supposed.
Toward 20 April, we pitched the original temporary tent high on the newest embankment out-of the initial patio (5750 meters.). Two days after we receive a route through the moraine and this is actually endangered less by the stone-avalanches compared to the that employed by the latest Jugoslavs. Camp I became created towards twenty eight April during the 5400 meters. regarding icefall but was only for explore when moving brand new tons. Go camping II (5850 m.) try a 3rd of the way up the first patio. On six Could possibly get, we had been currently in the a temporary tent from the 6200 m., below a high deal with causing the new apparent seat within very first terrace plus the Jannu Valley. Which opened pitch was secured with repaired ropes. The works was carried out in persisted snowfall and you may cinch blowing on a regular basis before the noon. At the beginning of the fresh new early morning off eleven Get, We leftover brand new tent (at the 6200 m.) having A good. Sobolewski on the Feet Go camping. We went down easily – one hour to help you Camp II, 1J days to Go camping I by nine-31 an effective.m. we were currently inside Base Go camping. The station from the icefall not existed! Fixed ropes and indicators have been not as much as ice particles – truth be told there have to have started a significant course out-of ice blocks.
We fulfilled all-in Feet Go camping. Here i decided to generate another route to the first terrace through the top part of the horizontal moraine where we noticed instead less losing rocks now than step 3 days eardier. To the p We and produced their products to help you Camp II. Out of this date there is certainly no Go camping We but i continued to retain the previous numeration. I situated Camp III (6350 m.) on the saddle.
On p III, we left the bottom Go camping including J. Olszewski and you can decided to go to Camp II. The brand new station via moraine are logically noted to the decorated brick-cairns by S. Wdowiak and you can Sherpa Wangchuck who showed a significant visual overall performance in the performing that actually work. The team out of P. Mlotecki came along the exact same day to help you Legs Go camping. Any other cluster-people were there but the fresh new Sirdar that has gone to Ghunza.
Next day we attained Go camping III and came back towards nights for the tent underneath the seat, where the breeze wasn’t so sharp. On the sixteen Could possibly get, a robust cinch generated the fresh productive step very difficult The group from W. Branski move sometime in the future across the saddle, after that descended to Ft, shortly after repairing ropes. Following day we fixed these ropes to have persisted use, produced them longer of the about some other a hundred m. and turned back to your night so you can Go camping III.